Millennial pink, iD and YSL
Photo-Illustration: The Cup. Photos: Rizolli; HarperCollins
Here, three coffee table books we recommend this month.
By Alastair McKim
“I think it was important to show people how identifier was still relevant,” says Alastair McKimm, the publication’s editor. “identifier has always been an underground style bible. Create iD: Wink and smile! : The first forty years, McKimm spent two years combing through the magazine’s 40-year-old archives. The book, published this month by Rizzoli, is broken down by decade and definitively proves identifier has always had his finger on the pulse of culture. It presents the profiles of an 18-year-old Gisele Bündchen, a young Björk in 1996 and Chloë Sevigny in 1995, before she was in Kids, as well as British fashion editorials vogueof current editor Edward Enninful when he was fashion director for the magazine in the early 2000s.
Choosing which material to include must not have been easy. “I just go with my instincts,” McKimm says. “If I was really excited about it, I would keep it in the next round of edits. I really wanted it to be the bangers. The most important thing for me was to not touch the archives as much as possible,” says he. “I wanted to be respectful of the archives and feel the texture of a printed magazine.” —Joanna Nikas
By Veronique Hyland
You have surely heard (and seen) the phrase millennial pink now, but did you know it was invented by fashion writer Véronique Hyland right here on the Cup in 2016? While she was a fashion editor and editor at New Yorkshe’s written countless stories that have fueled the conversation about what people wear and why they wear it, a topic she expanded into essays for her new book, Dress code, released since March 15. There’s a chapter on millennial pink, of course, but also the rise of the “couture body” she first spoke about in 2015, when celebrities started wearing “naked dresses” on the red carpet. . “What struck me was that usually people competed to see who could carry the most capital-F fashion look, and instead I saw more people showing off their bodies,” Hyland recently said. “The designer was a little off the mark.” In the book, she traces historical trends, illuminating how clothing has served to manipulate a woman’s figure, from corsets to Dior’s New Look.
Now we have Facetune and Photoshop and plastic surgery techniques that allow us to achieve the same IRL effects. “Obviously we’ve seen more body positivity in campaigns, on the catwalks and in editorials – arguably not enough. But what’s interesting is that at the same time, as these standards become more ‘expand, this ideal that we see shrinks and becomes harder and harder to achieve,” Hyland added. “In a way, then it becomes harder to keep up with fashion trends.” Between the ubiquitous current day of the Miu Miu miniskirt and the return of the tight bandage dress, the subject only continues to evolve, and Hyland’s book offers a clever, funny and impressive analysis of it. —Emilia Petrarca
Edited by Martina Mondadori and Stephan Janson. Contributions from Claude Arnaud, Hamish Bowles and Amy Fine Collins.
This tome celebrating 60 years of YSL explores the many inspirations the fashion designer has drawn throughout his career. The references are varied and diverse, from art – Christian Dior, his boss, encourages him to go to museums, to go to the theater and to indulge in many other forms of artistic expression – to flowers, dance costumes, to travel (notably to Morocco, where he had a home and maintained the beautiful Majorelle garden which is still there today). -JN